Butterfly Wall Direct
For the first time in my life I've actually been applying myself to training for something, it's been about 10 weeks since I started an aperiodized climbing training plan, based loosely on Steve Bechtel's Logical Progression.
The basic premise is that you rotate between the three types of sessions, progressing them all simultaneously, rather than peaking and letting each of them fall in turn.
The results seem to be pretty good, I'm climbing harder than I ever have before, and am seeing benefits in all three areas.
Finger strength and general strength is improving (so surprising given that I've never done any lifts before)
My on route endurance is improving, and my ability to apply power is increasing as well.
I still struggle with setting goals, but one route that I've been keen on doing for years is Butterfly Wall Direct (24) at Nowra. I first had a look at it in January this year, and the moves felt surprisingly doable. I spent another 3 days looking at it 2-3 times in mid July, making it towards the top of the upper crux, but feeling really spent at that point.
The last few weeks have seen less climbing, and I've spent more time on granite as well for some variety, but getting on the wall this weekend I felt strong. The first lap was pretty bad - I couldn't remember the beta for the footwork on the two hard moves, but a few hangs, and trying different footers again saw me to the top of the crux. I lowered off, and took a half hour to recover properly, trying not to get my hopes up too much.
On this attempt the lower undercling crux went easily, and the top one shortly afterwards. My footwork on it was a little off, but I pulled through. Even the rest felt better than it has in the past, and I was able to regain some strength for the push to the top.
Overall it was much easier than expected, and I have to think that the training had something to do with that.
Now to move onto some harder stuff. See if I can continue the trend of my first ascent of a grade being onsight.